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JAKARTA–A new breed of designers is seeking to blend Islamic modesty with
cutting-edge style to turn Indonesia into a global center of Islamic fashion.
Associated
Press - Models present creations of
designer Dian Pelangi during the Indonesia Fashion Week in Jakarta in February.
The idea may seem like a bad fit for some fashion mavens, who when thinking
of Islamic fashion usually picture drab black or white cloths used to cloak
female beauty rather than celebrate it.
But the Islamic-fashion industry has taken off in recent years as designers
look for ways to incorporate the bold colors and rich textile traditions
prevalent in some Islamic societies while still maintaining sufficient modesty
to adhere to Muslim mores.
Indonesia, as the world’s largest Muslim-majority country, is already one of
the main players, with a local fashion industry now estimated to be worth $6.6
billion dollars a year. But local designers and retailers – led by an industry
group called the Indonesian Islamic Fashion Consortium – are hoping to expand
the Islamic fashion component of the industry even more by drawing up a road
map to make Indonesia the “capital” of global Islamic fashion by 2020.
Right now, Malaysia, Thailand and France are among the leading Islamic
fashion hubs, industry officials say.
For the past two years, Indonesia’s consortium has embarked on road shows in
Europe, Asia and the Middle East to introduce Indonesian Islamic fashion
designers to the outside world. Its members have toured Indonesia’s provinces
and organized workshops for local entrepreneurs and designers on marketing and
production.
It has also organized an annual Indonesian Islamic Fashion Fair and, for the
first time last year, a national Muslim beauty pageant.
“The creativity of these young (Indonesian) designers is endless,” said
Jetti Hadi, editor-in-chief of local Islamic fashion magazine Noor and a
co-founder of the consortium. “Their designs are fashionable but still adhere
to the Islamic rules of modesty, which means that the clothes are loose-fitting
and do not reveal the shape of women’s bodies.”
The Indonesian pavilion at the International Fair of the Muslim World in
Paris last year attracted more than 2,000 visitors, Ms. Hadi said. Back at
home, there were 164 booths at an Islamic fashion show in Jakarta this year,
compared to only 30 booths two years earlier, she said.
Meanwhile,
at this year’s Muslim beauty pageant, known as the World Muslim
Beauty Contest, more than 750 women participated. Women from as far away as the
Netherlands, Germany and Australia and from various professions such as
lawyers, engineers and athletes applied to take part in the contest, but only
20 made it to the final on September 15 and all of them except for one are
Indonesian.
Participants were judged not only by their beauty, but also their ability to
read the Koran in Arabic and other Islamic knowledge as well as their social
activities. Most importantly, they were required to wear Muslim clothing.
Judges voted environmental activist and entrepreneur Nina Septiani as the
winner of the crown.
“Whenever people around the world hear about terror attacks (conducted by
Islamist militants), the image of Islam is tarnished somewhat. We want to
change the perception that Muslims are extreme,” said Aries Muftie, a member of
the jury, and an expert on Islamic finance.
Long known as a relatively secular Muslim nation, Indonesia has seen an
increase in the number of women wearing hijab, or Islamic dress in recent
years, which some analysts have attributed to rising Islamic conservativeness.
But as that has happened, it has also increased the demand for designers to
help add more variety to the attire. It has also led to a
mushrooming of online
shops and boutiques that cater to Islamic fashionistas, known locally as
hijabers. Entrepreneurs use popular social networking sites such as
Facebook
FB +0.01%,
Twitter and Multiply as well as local online marketplaces to promote their
items.
A rising middle class in Southeast Asia’s largest economy has also fueled a
boom in the domestic fashion industry.
The sharia unit of the state-owned
Bank
Rakyat Indonesia BBRI.JK +2.00% has
embraced the Muslim fashion aficionados by issuing a debit card that also
serves as a membership card for the “Hijabers Community,” which has 77,000
“likes” on Facebook and almost 57,000 followers on Twitter.
For aspiring entrepreneurs and designers like Jakarta-based Rika Septiana,
Facebook provides an opportunity to start a business without having to rent
space. Armed with a laptop and an Internet connection, Ms. Septiana started her
online Islamic fashion shop in 2010, offering hand-stitched headscarves,
necklaces, hand-made crochet flower brooches and other accessories popular
among hijabers.
She said business is good enough that she’s thinking of giving up her other
job as a secretary at a foreign company and turning to designing full-time.
“I have a lot of ideas that I have yet to put into reality. Also working
from home means I can have more time with my children,” she said.
Despite the proliferation of designers, it’s still not fully clear how much
of an impact Indonesian designers are having on the Muslim world at large, as
statistics are hard to come by. Export numbers are difficult to estimate
because most transactions with overseas buyers are conducted individually and
aren’t reported to national authorities.
Nevertheless,
more and more Malaysians and Singaporeans are now traveling to
Indonesia to sample its styles, says Irna Dewi, a manager at Mosaict
Hijabstore, a popular Islamic fashion chain that caters to middle-class
customers.
Indeed, Indonesia is increasingly becoming known as a trendsetter for Muslim
fashion styles, says Annisa, an Islamic fashion observer who like
many Indonesians
goes by one name and writes for
www.fashionesedaily.com, a local fashion website.
“The current trend incorporates bold colors, bold patterns and cutting-edge
designs,” she said, which together show that “Indonesian Muslim women have
become more expressive and confident in hijab.” At a recent Islamic fashion
show, for instance, models walked the runway wearing bright-colored tie dye
blouses combined with long skirts of floral-patterned songket, a hand-woven
fabric from Sumatra island.
They also put on bold accessories such as huge beaded necklaces, oversized
bangles and headscarves embroidered with Swarovski stones.